As summer fades and the cooler hues of autumn start to paint the world, there's a distinctive change in the air which means it's time to hang our straw hats up. The end of August marks the transition to a season where the world prepares to embrace the colder months. It’s been customary to wear felt cowboy hats between Labor Day and Memorial Day. The rule relates to the seasonality, as felt hats are generally warmer than straws. Let’s explore felt cowboy hat history, construction, cultural significance, and even its resurgence in modern fashion. 

Felt Cowboy Hat History 

The first cowboy hats were fur-felt and protected those who wore them from the sun’s rays, rain, and snow. But the first manufactured cowboy hat, Boss of the Plains, was made in Stetsonville in 1865 by John B. Stetson. The Boss of the Plains was crafted with a beaver pelt with a flat brim and rounded crown, contrary to the curved brim and indented crown we are familiar with today. Rolling into the 20th century, a man’s hat was seen as an indispensable item in his wardrobe. Stetson remained focused on manufacturing a high-quality hat that represented an investment for a working cowboy and a statement piece for the inner-city dweller. 

Construction

Felt cowboy hats are typically made from animal fur or wool. The process, however, of making felt hats involves matting and pressing these natural fibers together with the application of heat and moisture. The resulting material is then shaped into the desired hat style. The quality of the felt and the craftsmanship in shaping the hat greatly influence its overall appearance, durability, and price. The most common materials used for making felt cowboy hats include:

BEAVER FUR : Beaver fur is considered one of the finest materials for making felt cowboy hats. Beaver fur is known for its softness, durability, and ability to hold its shape well. Beaver fur felt hats are often more expensive but highly prized for their quality.

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RABBIT FUR : Rabbit fur is another common material used in felt hat production. It is valued for its soft texture and is often blended with other materials to create a smooth and resilient feel. Rabbit fur felt hats come in various qualities, with higher grades being softer and more expensive.

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WOOL : Wool-felt cowboy hats are more affordable than those made from fur. Wool is a versatile material that can be blended with other fibers to create a durable and economical felt. While wool-felt hats may not be as soft as fur-felt hats, they still provide good quality and come in a range of styles.

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HARE FUR : Hare fur is occasionally used in felt hat production. It falls between rabbit and beaver fur in terms of quality and price. Hare fur felt hats are known for their balance of softness and durability.

 It's worth noting that the percentage of fur content in the felt, the specific animal source, and the manufacturing process all play a role in determining the quality and cost of a felt cowboy hat. High-quality felt hats made from premium fur materials tend to be more expensive but also offer superior durability and comfort.

Types of Hat Creases

Felt cowboy hats come in a variety of crease styles, each with its own distinct character and functionality. Creases are not only a matter of fashion but can also serve practical purposes, such as shedding rainwater or providing shade. Here are some common felt cowboy hat creases:

The Cattleman - Perhaps the most classic and widely recognized crease! The Cattleman features a center crease running from front to back with a slight pinch on each side. Suitable for various occasions.

The Gus - The Gus crease is characterized by a pinched front and back with a flat, open crown; named after Gus McCrae, a character from the famous western novel and miniseries "Lonesome Dove.” This crease provides a distinctive rugged appearance.

The Teardrop - The Teardrop crease forms a teardrop-shaped crown with a center crease running front to back. It's a versatile and popular style that strikes a balance between the traditional and the modern.

Pencil Roll - In a Pencil Roll crease, the sides of the crown are rolled up, creating a round, rolled edge. This style is known for its classic and elegant appearance.

The Brick - The Brick is “a prominent flat, rectangular crease running down the middle of the top. This helps hold the hat in place while giving it a structured look. Along the side of the hat, there may or may not be two more creases flanking this center crease.’” (American Hat Makers)

The Rancher - The Rancher crease is characterized by a shallow center crease with slightly curved sides. It's a practical and functional crease often preferred by working ranchers! 

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Remember that felt cowboy hat creases are not just about style but can also serve functional purposes depending on your needs and preferences. Whether you're looking for a classic look or something with a unique twist, there's a crease style to suit your taste.

How Cowboy Hats Are Shaped 

Shaping a cowboy hat is a skilled craft that involves molding and forming the hat to achieve a desired style or crease. 

Step 1 : Steam Treatment | The first step in shaping a cowboy hat is to apply steam to the felt. Steam softens the felt material, making it pliable and easier to manipulate. The hat-maker or wearer uses a steam machine or a handheld steamer to evenly moisten the felt.

Step 2 : Crease Formation | Depending on the desired style or crease of the hat, the softened felt is shaped accordingly. The specific crease style, whether it's a Cattleman, Teardrop, Gus, or any other, requires skilled hands and an eye for detail. The crease is created by folding the crown of the hat along specific lines and pinching or rolling the material to achieve the desired shape.

Step 3 : Brim Shaping | The brim of the cowboy hat is also shaped during this process. The width and curvature of the brim are adjusted to the wearer's preference or the intended style. The edges of the brim can be curled up or left flat, depending on the desired look.

Step 4 : Setting and Cooling | After the hat has been shaped to perfection, it is allowed to cool and dry. This helps the felt material retain its shape once it has cooled down and dried, ensuring that the creases and brim maintain their form.

Step 5 : Finishing Touches | Once the hat has cooled and set, any additional styling or finishing touches may be applied. This can include trimming excess material, adjusting the crown height, or adding decorative elements like hatbands or feathers.

*Cowboy hats are typically available in various sizes, so it's essential to ensure that the hat is properly sized for the wearer. Sizing adjustments may involve adding or removing foam inserts or hatbands to achieve a comfortable fit.*

It's important to note that shaping a cowboy hat requires skill and experience, and it's often done by professional hat-makers. NRS offers both hat-shaping and cleaning services to ensure that your hat fits well and looks the best! Properly cared for and shaped, a cowboy hat can become a unique and stylish accessory and tool that reflects the wearer's personality and preferences.